Oshima Tsumugi is a traditional Japanese silk fabric known for its exquisite craftsmanship, unique dyeing techniques, and cultural importance.
It is called "Oshima Tsumugi" because it originated from Amami Oshima Island, located in the southern part of Japan.
Oshima Tsumugi, with its centuries-old history and intricate manufacturing process, is a testament to the skill and artistry of Japanese craftsmen.
In this article, we will introduce the charm and history of Oshima Tsumugi in great detail.
What kind of fabric is Oshima Tsumugi?
Oshima Tsumugi is a fabric produced on Amami Tsumugi Island and is made using precise and delicate dyeing and weaving techniques, and is designated as a traditional craft that Japan is proud of.
It is often used as a material for kimono remakes because of its supple and light texture, dignified luster, and resistance to wrinkling.
It is said to be a highly durable fabric that can be worn for 150 to 200 years, making it a gem that is too good to leave lying in the back of the wardrobe.
Did you know that Oshima Tsumugi is one of the three most famous fabrics in the world, along with Gobelins and Persian textiles?
This fabric, which is produced through more than 30 processes and takes six months to a year to complete, is highly acclaimed around the world.
Main Characteristics of Oshima Tsumugi
Hand-woven silk
Oshima Tsumugi is closely woven by hand using high quality silk yarns.
This traditional method gives Oshima Tsumugi a unique texture and luster different from other silk fabrics.
Mud Dyeing
The unique black, austere hue of Oshima silk is produced by a process called "mud dyeing," in which the cloth is dyed using mud containing iron and the infused juice of plants unique to Amami-Oshima.
There are also various other types, such as "White Oshima" (which is not dyed with mud), "Colored Oshima" (which is dyed with color), and "Soshiki Dye" (which is dyed with plants and trees).
Various patterns
Two types of patterns are known as representative of Oshima Tsumugi: the Tatsugo pattern, a geometric design of cycads for women, and the tortoiseshell pattern, which is said to enhance men's style.
The Ryugo pattern, in particular, is synonymous with Oshima Tsumugi.
In addition, there is the highest grade of Oshima Tsumugi that incorporates nine kasuri patterns on all four sides, called "konmalki," and most of the Ryugo pattern is konmalki.
Lightweight and highly breathable
This fabric is lightweight and breathable, and its moisture absorbing properties make it suitable for kimonos and other traditional Japanese garments.
How is Oshima Tsumugi made?
Oshima Tsumugi is made in more than 30 processes, all of which are done by hand and take a long time.
Each process is handled by a specialized craftsman, and is connected to the next process.
Here, we will explain the general flow of the process.
Drawing and design
Set up the image of the pattern. You may draw a paper blueprint by hand or use computer software.
At this point, we calculate the number of threads needed and prepare the threads as well.
Ito-kuri (reeling) and suture preparation
Silk yarns are wound onto a frame, and the number of threads is set according to the blueprints.
Glueing
The warp and weft are glued separately and allowed to dry thoroughly.
This process is done on a sunny day to allow for drying in the sun.
Shimebata
A larger loom than the weaving loom is used to make patterns according to a blueprint.
This is the process of temporarily weaving silk yarns with cotton yarns.
dyeing
Indian hawthorn(Teach Wood), which has a high tannin content, is boiled down in a kiln for 30 hours.
Indian hawthorn is dyed dozens of times with the boiled-down juice, changing the liquid.
After drying, the tannin and iron react chemically when dyed in the mud field.
This process is repeated many times and requires a lot of patience.
Preparatory processing
Preparation for the next weaving process. Colors are added, threads are cut, and so on,
The process includes various steps such as coloring, threading, and preparing plain colors.
Weaving
Weaving is done on a hand-weaving loom, carefully matching the patterns.
It takes about one month to weave one piece (12.5 m), depending on the pattern and the weaver.
The History of Oshima Tsumugi
The history of Oshima Tsumugi is very old, and it is said that it was already established as a culture in Amami about 1,300 years ago.
Around 1700, it was designated as a high-class textile and designated as a top delivery item by the Satsuma clan.
In the late 1800s, the fabric began to be traded in many places, and as it was exhibited at expositions and product sales meetings, it gained recognition and reputation.
In the Showa period (1926-1989), many new dyeing techniques were researched, and in the 1950s, white Oshima Tsumugi and colored Oshima Tsumugi were developed.
In 1975, Oshima tsumugi was designated as a traditional handicraft of Japan, and at the peak of production in 1976, over 700,000 products were made.
Today, Oshima Tsumugi is used as a fabric, modern accessories, and clothing utilizing the mud-dyeing technique.
The Cultural Role of Oshima Tsumugi
Oshima Tsumugi is considered a valuable cultural heritage of the Amami Islands, and its production is closely linked to the preservation of local traditions and the livelihood of the local population.
Efforts are being made to protect and promote this traditional craft.
In modern times, there are challenges in production. The labor-intensive and time-consuming nature of this occupation and its high technical requirements make it difficult to sustain.
Many artisans are aging and opportunities for younger generations to learn this craft are limited.
However, efforts are underway to support the preservation and revitalization of Oshima Tsumugi.
These efforts include training new artisans, promoting the use of the fabric in contemporary fashion, and increasing awareness of its cultural significance.
Conclusion
Oshima Tsumugi is a proudly Japanese textile that combines centuries of craftsmanship, precise dyeing techniques, and deep cultural values.
Despite the challenges it faces today, efforts to preserve and revitalize the culture will continue to protect Oshima Tsumugi's techniques and culture in the years to come.
And it continues to be a source of pride for the Amami Islands and Japan as a whole.